Sunday, January 3, 2010

Dog Training Misconceptions from BARK Magazine

Happy New Year!

A client & good friend gave me a subscription to BARK Magazine for Christmas! I have read my first issue (in an hour) & want to share.

Having a Beagle, I've learned how important proper training is, especially for lively breeds such as my Bailey. There are some misconceptions about training that I found interesting.

1) DO NOT stare down an aggressive or frightened dog! This poses threat to dogs who may already considering an attack. This will escalate it. This reminds me of a 108 lb Lab I cared for. He was very protective of his owner & the new baby. During my consult, he barked excessively. I sat on the futon with the the family, never making eye contact, but lowering my hand. It took 40 minutes for him to sniff my hand. I came back for a 2nd & 3rd consult and then felt comfortable to enter alone. Oscar was great and adorable. Do it their way - you will gain a pet pal & stay safe!

Kneeing a dog who jumps IS NOT smart. This can cause injury to a neck or chest, even with little force. Also, dogs respond to the angle of your torso & when you do this, you lean back, thus yielding space to the dog. Lean toward jumpers ... you will get a better reaction.

Dogs DO NOT necessarily love hugs - sorry! This is normally rude and threatening to a dog, due to natural pack tendencies. We aren't part of the pack however, so some dogs learn to adapt and even enjoy a hug, but not too tight or constricting!

Alpha rollovers DO NOT teach your dog who's boss & this doesn't control unruly behavior. This consists of pinning your dog on his back & staring. This terrifies your dog & may cause a lack of trust in him toward you. A dog will think of this more as a fighting tactic & we don't want that!

Fearful dogs WILL NOT become social through training or dog park trips. Socialization occurs during 3 to 12 weeks. A pup should be socialized during this time when he is alert & inquisitive. How you do this will determine happy from fearful - sweet from aggressive. Taking a fearful dog to class or the dog park can make them more afraid. If he is repeatedly frightened, he will most likely become more so.

BARK Magazine states that the best training info comes from true professionals (not necessarily on camera), so obtain advice of true experts & get the "scoop!"

Thanks to Becky for the great gift & the wonderful homemade dog treats! Try the recipe below and if you have recipes or training tips, feel free to answer through this blog!

Check back in a couple of weeks. Until then, enjoy your pet friends!

PUPCAKES:
1/4 cup honey
2 cups whole wheat flour
1/2 cup sugar-free applesauce
2 tablespoons canola oil
3 tablespoons carob powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 cup warm water
1 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat to 350.
Whisk all ingredients. Oil mini muffin pan. Fill each with approximately 1 tablespoon batter. Bake for 12 minutes & cool.
Taste em--they are all people ingredients & yummy! They freeze well too!

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Crate or No Crate - Part 2

In part ONE of "Crate or No Crate, we discussed basics of dog crating & reasons why it is a good idea for you AND your dog...

Dogs are den animals & will grow to love their crate
Dogs are kept safe from a potentially dangerous environment
A crate is an invaluable tool when housebreaking

Let's Continue ...
CRATE TRAINING YOUR PUPPY OR ADULT DOG In the wild and domestically, dogs naturally den. It's an invaluable tool in housetraining.Puppies learn from their mother that they shouldn't soil their sleeping area. When they are still in the whelping box, pups crawl away to an area they chose as the potty area & eliminate there. They are already innately trained not to soil the area where they sleep.

Setting The Rules From The Beginning
If your puppy whines when first put in his crate it's because he would rather be snuggled up close to you the way he was with his litter mates. If you allow this, it's harder to break over time. Think of what the adult size of your dog will be & decide if you have room in your lap, bed, etc.. You must decide before you bring the puppy home what the "rules" will be & then stick to them. Help From the Breeder If you're lucky, the breeder began to crate train the puppies while they are still in the whelping box. If so, allow the pup to get used to it's new crate, it's smells and your home... your job will go much faster. Try to get a familiar piece of bedding from the breeder, one which has the smells of the litter. Place this in the crate along with the other pads or towels. This will help the pup feel at home. Positive Associations

*Crate training should be positive with no negative associations.

*Have the crate ready with a towel or a washable pad , possibly a pillow.

*Add a small treat (a carrot or piece of his dry food) and allow the puppy to sniff it, luring him in.

*Use a word association - Mine is "kennel in". I use the word association AS I'm putting the treat into the crate & the puppy is following it in. Do this about five times & then quit for awhile. Repeat often, the first day.

*Leave the door open during exploration & let him come out as he wishes. Don't force the pup in & don't make him stay in there the first several times.
Closing The Crate Door *When the pup is entering with ease, has played & piddled & is ready to nap, lure him in like before, but close the door. You may want to now add a new toy-something new & interesting. *Sit on the floor in front of the crate & talk to him. If he whines, put your fingers through the grate to reassure. Stay until the whining subsides & the puppy calms down & then open the crate door- 5-10 minutes usually. If the pup falls asleep, let him sleep in the crate until he wakes up & then it's right outside to go potty. *Don't praise when opening the crate door so he doesn't get the impression that getting out is much more fun than being in. DO NOT let him out until he is quiet! The First Night At Home *If you haven't yet had time for the above training, play with the puppy until he's tired. *After you wake, be sure he has pottied outside, place the crate with pad and towels etc. on a chair or table next to your bed where you can reach. *Place the pup in the crate. Go to bed & turn out lights. If the puppy whines, place your fingers in the grate & talk softly until he falls asleep. ***You may lose a little sleep but DO NOT open the door for the puppy for at least four hours. Don't get angry or yell. *As soon as the puppy whines after waking up, take him outside. Carry the pup from crate to potty area immediately, praise softly and gently for a job well done, bring him back in and without play or snuggling, return him to his crate, turn the lights out & go back to sleep. *Repeat steps as necessary. *It is your responsibility to get the puppy out BEFORE he has soiled his den. Clean it up using a light vinegar and water mix. Put clean towels or pads in the crate and return to your routine. Set an alarm clock if you have to. *Later on, after the puppy is used to it's routine & after he no longer needs to go out every four hours, you can put the crate on the floor of your bedroom or somewhere else in the house. Crating When You Leave The House He's made it through the night. He is familiar with his crate. *Make sure he has been exercised, pottied & is tired. *Take off his collar & remove unsafe toys. Lure him in with a treat and your association word. *Close the door & leave the house - no talking to him. He may whine a little. *Return after an hour or two. If you have to go to work, arrange to come home at lunch to feed, exercise & potty the puppy during your break or have a pet sitter do this for you. A puppy cannot be expected to go longer than four hours without a potty break & it is very hard to retrain a puppy that is used to soiling his crate. A Place To Get Away From It All After the puppy has grown a bit & is used to being put into his crate, you will see something interesting happen. He will go to his crate to rest. Leave crate doors open & dogs frequently go there to nap on their own volition.

REASONS TO CRATE TRAIN EARLY

Flying Dogs must be crated for this. Flying is stressful enough for the dog. The less stress, the better. Boarding at the Vet It is always best to hire a pet sitter to care for your pets at home. However, your pet may have to stay at the Vet. If he is use to crates, that removes some stress. Crating In The Car Keeping your dog safe in the car is another reason to crate train. Car doors can fly open. If crated when in an accident, the crate can protect him. If you are hurt, emergency services people are more likely keep your dog safe & contained if the dog is in a crate and they can easily transport the dog to a safe area. Crating Adult Dogs *Follow all puppy steps. *When the dog will readily go in the crate, make him lie down while you sit on the floor in front him for a few seconds. Then let him come out. Again, don't praise. Keep this up for several days or until he's comfortable. *Keep doing this without any negativity until he's comfortable in the crate for longer periods. *Most dogs can be crate trained using this method no matter how old they are. Keep it positive but don't give in! Try to build time gradually. *If you need to crate train your dog to fly, try & give yourself as much time as possible. A month or more is optimal. If you don't have that much time, try to do as many repetitions as you can during the time you have. *Wait an hour or so in between training sessions. The more you repeat, the less stress for you and your dog.

DO'S & DON'TS

*Never crate a dog with a choke collar on. Dogs can choke themselves to death. Remove any collar while crating. *Never crate a dog with a leash attached! Same reason. Safe Toys * Kongs. Made of hard rubber that is almost impossible to destroy. Some people put a little peanut butter inside and that gives the pup/dog something do for awhile after you leave. Not alot of peanut butter, just enough to keep them interested. Thank you and best of luck crating your dogs. They WILL love you for it!

See you in a couple of weeks with new info.
Until then, enjoy your pet friends!

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Crate or No Crate - PART ONE ... Crating Your Dog

Providing your puppy or dog with a kennel can prove quite satisfying. Many people say they don't believe in "crating." Read this ...

1) Dogs are den animals who seek out caves or dark, secluded spaces at times.

2) A crate with comfortable bedding can reduce anxiety, prevent destructive behavior, keep puppies safe from poisons, electrical wires, etc., and serve as a “mobile"bedroom", even when traveling.

3) Many veterinarians state that a crate should be available for the life of the dog.

The door can eventually be removed so that the dog has the crate to enter and exit at
will.

Furnishing Your Dog's Crate:

Toss favorite toys and treats to the far end of the kennel...

1) Kongs or Nylabones are good and entertaining. Toys must be inedible and large
enough to avoid being swallowed. Fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking.

2) Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours. They know how to use them.

Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy:

1) At home, place the crate near you. This encourages the pup to go inside without feeling lonely when you go out.

2) Drop small pieces of kibble in the crate. The pup will discover edible treasures, reinforcing a positive association with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate, or if he hesitates, feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and finally, in the back of the crate.

3) Give praise for entering the crate. Do not try to force the puppy unless leaving or heading to sleep for the night.

Important Reminders:

1) Collars: Always remove your puppy/dog's collar before confining in the crate. This helps in avoiding serious situations such as strangulation on wires or mesh.

2) Warm Weather: Do not crate a dog outside ever! Don't crate inside without air conditioning when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. Cold water should always be available.

3) Be certain that your dog has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large, to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated.

A Note About Crating Puppies:

Puppies under 4 months have tiny bladders. Puppies under 3 months have far less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).

Crating/Kenneling Guide Lines:

9-10 Weeks: Approx. 30-60 minutes at a time

11-14 Weeks: Approx. 1-3 hours

15-16 Weeks: Approx. 3-4 hours

17 + Weeks: Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)


*NOTE:Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!) This calls for visits home for a break from you or a qualified pet sitter!


Look for more information about kenneling/crating in Part 2 of my blog article, in about 2 weeks.

Until then, enjoy your pet friends!

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

The Power of Pets and How to Care For Them Over Time

The Power of Pets and How to Care For Them Over Time

Keep Your Pets – You’ll Live Longer …


The advantages of adopting a pet are many:
• The pet is not destroyed …
• The pet finds a good home …
• Many more advantages that make pet adoption beneficial to animals.


However, did you ever think of the human animal?



In 1980, a clinical research project in Brooklyn, NY studied discharged heart disease
patients. Each survivor was tracked by a college PhD. It was reported that the presence of a
pet was the strongest social predictor of survival! In a study of heart attack patients, the
mortality rate of patients who had pets was 1/3 less than those without pets.
Further research backed this up by showing that having a pet decreased the overall mortality
rate by 3%! This adds up to approximately 30,000 people yearly, being saved by their pets!

Pets are a vital component in the well being of individuals, especially the elderly.


Often, the elderly feel isolated and lonely. Having a pet actually reduces this feeling.
To them, a pet offers friendship and a sense of being needed. According to the “Journal of
the American Geriatrics Society”, the elderly who had companion animals walked more
often and farther, which can positively contribute to their overall health and well being.

It’s a win-win … Check this out!

• Pets Lower Blood Pressure and pulse rate

• People with pets feel the need to see a Doctor 21% less

• People with pets are less depressed

Pet owners find it easier to make friends

Seniors become more active and take better care of themselves

• Pets offer unconditional love and affection

• Pets ease losses and help fight loneliness

Security is enhanced for pets and people

When Pet Responsibility Becomes Difficult … What are the options?
Fido is a great companion who loves to fetch and go for long runs! Fifi is a cuddler
kitty and provides comfort when you feel down. Even Pretty Bird is a joy, talking
and acting like a comedian! You would not part with them for the world … but …
Many times, we feel as though we don’t have a choice. We get sick. We age. We often must
leave home. This can create anxiety, as you think you must give up your cherished pets. Pets
must have proper care, but circumstances can make that difficult!

Never fear – Here are the perfect options!

• There are kennels and most are very good

• There are pet day care facilities available.

• There are also pet sitters Pet sitters offer all kinds of options:
1. Day care
2. Pet visits
3. Dog walks
4. Most any service to aid in the care of your pets!

There’s No Place Like Home For Your Pet …

When searching for the best overnight care, whether for a day, a week or longer, the
best choice is always keeping your pets in their own home. Why? Pet stress is greatly
reduced, as your pets are in familiar territory. Taken out of their element, pets often feel
abandoned. They get anxious and can damage property, or even hurt someone. If
you must remove them temporarily from their home, choose a responsible pet sitter.

However, if that sitter will set up residence in your home, this is best option for your pet
and you!

Pet sitters are the best choice for the elderly, sick or physically challenged. You can
do your part and the sitter can pick up the slack, arriving once or multiple times daily to
walk pets, clean cages and litter boxes, feed, etc. This solution is key and affords you
the joy of keeping your beloved pet close and happy!
Let pet sitters consult with you. Meet with them before making agreements.
Be sure you are comfortable with them and most importantly your pets are comfortable with
them as well. Then you can relax knowing your pet(s) are in good hands and receiving…
‘loving care when you’re not there’.

My next blog article will be out in about 2 weeks.

Until then- enjoy your pet friends!

Nancy Barry
Proprietor
Leash On Life
"Loving Care When You're Not There."

Monday, July 13, 2009

Announcing The LeashOnLife Blog

Welcome to the Leash on Life blog. My goal with this blog is to provide my clients and business friends information and tips regarding pets, house cleaning advice and other things that can help anyone keep a Leash On Life. If you ever have any pet topics or home management topics that you'd like to see more information about, please do not hesitate to leave a comment on this blog. Look for my first blog in the next week or so.
Leash On Life- Loving Care When You're Not There!